{"id":2315,"date":"2018-04-08T09:24:37","date_gmt":"2018-04-08T13:24:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/carleton.ca\/grs\/?p=2315"},"modified":"2018-05-18T13:49:59","modified_gmt":"2018-05-18T17:49:59","slug":"walking-the-via-egnatia-with-walter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/carleton.ca\/grs\/2018\/walking-the-via-egnatia-with-walter\/","title":{"rendered":"Walking the Via Egnatia\u00a0with Walter"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Walter\"

Walter<\/p><\/div>\n

Walking the Via Egnatia<\/em> with Walter<\/h3>\n

by Walter Wilmot, with pictures by Walter.<\/p>\n

Last year I was continuously inspired as I attended Marianne Goodfellow\u2019s course \u201cIssues in Classics: Travel and Sightseeing in the Ancient World.\u201d\u00a0 Our text was rich and worthy, Travel in the Ancient World\u00a0<\/em>by Lionel Casson.\u00a0 Some of the early content that fascinated me was a mention of the ancient \u2018rut roads\u2019 to Greek sanctuaries and the trail of mythological repute from Corinth to Megara above the Scironic Rocks that can still be seen today.Then one day she mentioned the Via Egnatia<\/em>.\u00a0 It is a Roman road, about 1000 kilometers in length, six meters in width and \u201cpaved\u201d with stones, that stretched from the Adriatic coast of what is now Albania across the Balkans, past Lake Ohrid, Heraclea Lyncestis, Pella, Thessalonica, Amphipolis, and Philippi, all the way to Constantinople.<\/p>\n

\"the

The Roman Via re-surfaced and upgraded by the Italian military in 1940 after their invasion of Albania using the timeless technology of the then impoverished southern Europe<\/p><\/div>\n

On my \u201cbucket list\u201d has always been the desire to visit southern Europe and so Marianne\u2019s mere mention of this Roman road led me to fantasize about tramping along its stone surface – if parts of it could be found.\u00a0 I read that the road was built in the second century BC as the continuation of the Via Appia<\/em>, and that it has a long history and purpose that continues to this day.\u00a0Its importance for military forces, economies, and communication is well documented in the book The Egnatian Way\u00a0<\/em>by Firmin O\u2019Sullivan (1972). \u00a0Madam Google led me to the Via Egnatia Foundation which has published a guide book for travelers today to follow the route.\u00a0I realized that there was no going back.\u00a0With my experience of having twice walked the \u201cEl Camino,\u201d that Medieval pilgrimage route across northern Spain, and a tablet in my backpack with both a good translation app and mapping app, I left Ottawa in late March 2017.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

I began my walk in Durr\u00ebs or Dyrrachium, as it was known in ancient Illyria, a terminus\u00a0<\/em>of the Via Egnatia <\/em>on the Albanian coast, the other being Apollonia a little further south. \u00a0Albania is very poor; unemployment, organized crime and corruption are high, and there is no trust in the politicians.\u00a0 Locals described their country to me as \u201cbroken,\u201d comparable to North Korea, as a vast prison with most young people wanting to emigrate or at least get a legal work permit for somewhere, anywhere.\u00a0 I do not think, however, that you would find a more hospitable people.\u00a0I believe it related to their cultural sense of honour.\u00a0 Just ask for directions along the road and you will be offered a glass of homemade raki, a meal, and even a sleepover! \u00a0(I was given a free meal in a restaurant, a collective taxi ride, and small items in a corner store as presents.)\u00a0 Albania is extremely safe for travellers and it has the least tourist infrastructure of any European country.\u00a0 That is a good thing.\u00a0 You can visit the sites such as Apollonia or the World Heritage site at Butrint tourist-free; when the daily tour bus leaves\u2026silence, peace and presence, hours of it, unlike sites in Greece where I ended my journey four months later.<\/p>\n

The legacy of the Roman road continues in Albania today with the Rruga Autostrada Egnatia, reconstruction of which has exposed Roman Durr\u00ebs near the Venetian Tower.\u00a0 (While I was there French archaeologists found a human skeleton just beneath the tarmac.)\u00a0 I found the city\u2019s archaeological museum very Zen, very Roman. \u00a0From Durr\u00ebs on my first day along the Roman road itself, I walked as far as Pequin (pronounced Peh-cheen) and I saw ten to twelve donkeys.\u00a0My first sighting was a donkey saddled with a large load and accompanied by a man who was talking on his cell phone.\u00a0Later on I took a rest by the roadside and heard two peasant women chatting.\u00a0 As I looked over, I realized it was one woman talking on her cell phone. \u00a0Globalization!<\/p>\n

\"an

An Albanian and his donkey on the Roman road<\/p><\/div>\n

Before I continued eastwards from Pequin toward Lake Ohrid, my goal for this stage of my pilgrimage, I made a detour and stopped in Apollonia, a Greek colony founded in 588 BC, once home to about 60,000 people but abandoned in the Middle Ages.\u00a0 It took me a few hours to find the ancient acropolis since there was no signage.\u00a0 I found out that it had been ruthlessly tunneled and bunkered when, under communist dictator Enver Hoxha, the country was mobilized for a defensive war.\u00a0 Pillboxes and bunkers, a minimum of 200,000 of them, were built all over the country including the Apollonian acropolis and in strategic places along the route of the Via Egnatia<\/em>.<\/p>\n

\"some

Some of Hoxha\u2019s bunkers where sheep graze along the road<\/p><\/div>\n

The nymphaeum\u00a0<\/em>just below the acropolis at Apollonia was discovered during construction of the bunkers and excavation followed.\u00a0 But again, I had trouble finding the site due to the absence of signs.\u00a0 The ruins made me realize that the nymphaeum<\/em>, sacred to Pan and described by Strabo, must have once been magnificent to see.\u00a0 Today the ubiquitous Albanian sheep graze happily among the ruins.\u00a0 I walked around a Roman-era street corner in the Apollonian agora, only 5% excavated to date, with its shops, the bouleuterion<\/em>, and theatre.\u00a0 I also saw the Apollo Agyieus\u00a0<\/em>obelisk; as patron of public places, streets, houses, and colonists, he was worshipped in this form and not in a temple.<\/p>\n

\"the

The Roman Nymphaeum at Apollonia<\/p><\/div>\n

Over the next few weeks I continued along the way to places like Elbasan, identified with Mansio Scampa<\/em>, a Roman \u201cstopping place\u201d along the road, and Ad Quintum\u00a0<\/em>(at Five Miles), a mutatio\u00a0<\/em>or \u201cchanging place\u201d.\u00a0 Few mutationes\u00a0<\/em>and mansiones\u00a0<\/em>have been identified archaeologically though they are listed in the Roman imperial Antonine Itinerary, as well as the Bordeaux Itinerary written by a Christian pilgrim in 333 AD. The remains of Ad Quintum<\/em>, which include a Roman bath, were discovered accidentally when exposed after a landslide in 1968.\u00a0 On the steep slopes along the Shkumbin River (ancient Genusus), which the road follows for some distance, these landslides are common and must have made road maintenance a labour intensive challenge for the Romans – and for the Byzantine and Ottoman administrations that followed.<\/p>\n

\"

The Via Egnatia<\/em> along the steep slopes high above the Shkumbin River with two bunkers just visible<\/p><\/div>\n

I reached my destination of Lin with its 5th<\/sup>century AD basilica above Lake Ohrid after four weeks on the road.\u00a0 I took my time.\u00a0 I watched the locals walk to their fields every day at 7:30 am and return late afternoon.\u00a0Not a machine or motor to be heard.\u00a0I loved it.\u00a0 I rested here a while and reflected on my journey which at times was physically demanding and very difficult but two aspects of it made it quite special.\u00a0 One was the landscape itself, wild in places with rugged mountains and the river below.\u00a0In some villages there were no cars, just the sound of roosters, the odd cow, and birds. I came across a number of Moslem cemeteries in some beautiful spots along the road, the burials facing northeast looking towards Mecca.<\/p>\n

\"a

A Moslem cemetery along the Via Egnatia<\/p><\/div>\n

The second aspect of my journey that made it memorable was the kindness of strangers.\u00a0 I never met a more hospitable people.\u00a0 They fed me cheese, lamb, bread and butter, veggies, from their sweat and toil.\u00a0 They gave me a bed for the night and 500 ml of their homemade raki for the road. \u00a0I learned of the hard life of these people; one young man I met, a heavy equipment mechanic, earns $1.00 per hour, 6 days per week, no sick leave or vacation pay.\u00a0He feels fortunate to even have found work.\u00a0 He learned English by working illegally in Greece, as most Albanian males have done.\u00a0Immigration authorities discovered and deported him.<\/p>\n

\"the

The kindness of strangers<\/p><\/div>\n

I left the Via Egnatia\u00a0<\/em>at Lake Ohrid (with Albania to the west and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) to the east), and I headed east to the hot spring resort of Sandanski, Roman Parthicopolis<\/em>, in Bulgaria where I spent three weeks on an archaeological excavation with the summer program of the American Research Center in Sofia (ARCS) Foundation at the site of a 6th<\/sup>century basilica.\u00a0The final leg of my pilgrimage was a three-week tour through Greece with the American School of Classical Studies at Athens.\u00a0 It was an honour to experience it through this gold standard of archaeological institutions.\u00a0 I finally returned to Ottawa more than four months later.<\/p>\n

I never anticipated that passing mention of one Roman road in Marianne\u2019s classroom in Paterson Hall could have ever had such consequences for me (nor, for that matter, did she). \u00a0And it was not just that delightful road.\u00a0 One day early in the course, she had mentioned Sounion.\u00a0 So one of the last acts of my pilgrimage was to see Lord Byron\u2019s signature where he carved it himself in 1810 on the marble of Poseidon\u2019s temple.\u00a0 To quote from his poem:<\/p>\n

Place me on Sunium\u2019s marbled steep,<\/p>\n

Where nothing, save the waves and I,<\/p>\n

May hear our mutual murmurs sweep;<\/p>\n

There, swan-like, let me sing and die:<\/p>\n

\u2014 (Don Juan<\/em>, Canto III \u201cThe Isles of Greece\u201d, Section 86, stanza 16)<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\"Lord

Lord Byron\u2019s signature at Sounion<\/p><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Walking the Via Egnatia with Walter by Walter Wilmot, with pictures by Walter. Last year I was continuously inspired as I attended Marianne Goodfellow\u2019s course \u201cIssues in Classics: Travel and Sightseeing in the Ancient World.\u201d\u00a0 Our text was rich and worthy, Travel in the Ancient World\u00a0by Lionel Casson.\u00a0 Some of the early content that fascinated […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","_mi_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[57],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nWalking the Via Egnatia\u00a0with Walter - Greek and Roman Studies<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Walking the Via Egnatia with Walter by Walter Wilmot, with pictures by Walter. 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